Good Times Roll Down On The Bayou

By Alan Eisenstein

Louisiana is a unique, dynamic and growing state     comprised of exotic people and attractions, not the least of which is the variety and quality of its outdoor adventures and sports opportunities.

This certainly holds true for the Louisiana Audubon Golf Trail, a collection of 13 golf clubs in the state.

However, while it was easy to get to Louisiana – with clusters of courses around the state and near airports in New Orleans, Lake Charles, Monroe and Shreveport – deciding which Trail courses and experiences I enjoyed the most was much more difficult, given the number and diversity of options available to visitors.

After four days of golf at five courses in Louisiana, I couldn’t decide whether my favorite course was the new Black Bear Golf Club in Delhi or Gray Plantation in Lake Charles… or the appetizers during dinner at Cypress Bend Golf Resort and Conference Center… or the shrimp etouffee whipped up for us at the lakeside cabins at Poverty Point State Park… and so on.

Golf and food – it’s a surefire way to go in Louisiana. One was a pleasant surprise (the golf). One was not (the food). But that’s not all. Louisiana’s mantra is “L’aissez les bon temps roulez.” And in order to “let the good times roll,” one is obliged – even in the company of serious golfers – to crack some crawfish, groove to some zydeco and visit a casino resort. If you don’t, you might as well have gone to Branson, Missouri, played 36 a day, ate meatloaf at Morrison’s and grabbed a six-pack at the Piggly Wiggly.

Forget sugar cane, cotton and oil. Louisiana’s primary product is fun. You don’t have to go all the way. You don’t have to “suck heads” as Cajuns say of their prized crawfish. Louisianans understand that some hard shells are tough to crack. So even if you don’t have a taste for gumbo, Dr. John, or blackjack, you can still partake of the state’s most precious resource – its people. I’m sure there are other places where you could hear an older player say “I got more tees than bend-overs,” explaining why he never picked up his golf tees. It just seems you’re more likely to hear it here.

Most people are in tune with the gastronomic delights of Cajun Country, as well as the music, fishing and other water sports. What they may not know about is the golf. The five courses I played on Louisiana’s Audubon Golf Trail offered great prices, outstanding conditions and layouts as diverse as the state’s major cities – Shreveport, Lake Charles, Baton Rouge and New Orleans.

A defining characteristic of the Audubon Golf Trail is the diversity of its courses – from the muscular drama and playability of Black Bear (designed by Texas-based golf architects Roy Bechtol and Randy Russell), to the sinewy, water laden terrain on which sit the three nines of Olde Oaks (Hal Sutton design).

And it’s not just course diversity which propels the Audubon Golf – the diversity of Louisiana’s land, people and culture is an amazing value-added component to any golf trip there. Fortunately, and smartly, one of the Audubon Trail’s goals is to showcase the many faces of the state.

The Trail is named for naturalist/artist John James Audubon who was moved by the Feliciana Parish countryside to paint more than 80 of his famous Birds of America series images. Courses in the Trail are members of the Audubon Cooperative Sanctuary, a program that protects the environment and preserves the natural heritage of the sport.

The first course we played on the trip – Black Bear in Delhi – sits atop Macon Ridge and winds down through wooded creek bottoms. The 7,200 yard championship layout features four sets of tees and a big list of amenities, soon to be enhanced with the addition of a sparkling new clubhouse this summer.

There are many memorable holes at Black Bear, and much to like, but what inspired me was the premium placed on approaching greens from the best angles.

The fairways were wide and par-3s were accessible, but all of the green’s complexes had plenty of nuance which were best attacked from the right position. You could find them from the wrong position, or find the hole after landing on the putting surface in a less than ideal spot with approach shots, but with much more difficulty and much less chance of making pars. It was easy to see why this course is being considered for best-new status by Golf Digest Magazine.

That evening we had an authentic Cajun dinner cooked for us by Dwight Landreneau, a native and long-time state executive. It was hard to imagine a more satisfying way to end the day than with a belly full of shrimp etouffee, sitting on the screened-in porch of one of the well-appointed Poverty Point State Park cottages which sit on stilts out on the water.

We played Calvert Crossing in Calhoun the next morning. It’s a 6,845-yard championship course which features undulating greens, narrow tree-lined fairways, and water on 10 holes. Five sets of tees await players who had better select their clubs wisely as the layout is known as a “shot maker's golf course.” When the greens are running fast at Calvert – and they weren’t too fast the day we visited – the course bares its fangs. The scenery – mature pines and stately white oaks frame the course – make the golf experience particularly pleasant.

Off to Shreveport next. Once home of the famous Louisiana Hayride – the live country music extravaganza which played host to many legendary performers before closing in the 1960s, including Elvis, Johnny Cash, Hank Williams, Roy Accuff, Kitty Wells and others – Shreveport is now a bustling casino resort destination. We stayed at Diamond Jacks Casino and enjoyed the large, fine rooms and all the casino gaming we could handle. (Some of us handled it better than others.)

The standard for great golf in Shreveport is set by Olde Oaks Golf Club. It’s a 27-hole, Hal Sutton-designed complex which epitomizes the “member for a day” customer service theme. The Cypress, Oak and Meadow nines offer an array of dazzling holes, many of extreme drama with carries over water.

Perhaps the most impressive aspect of the club was its immaculate course conditions. A large number of rounds are played each year, but the club ensures none of the nines get overused by taking one nine out of play each day. Top to bottom – the food, golf shop and locker room are terrific too – this is a must-visit golf club.

From Shreveport we drove to Cypress Bend Golf Resort & Conference Center in Many, home to the legendary, 186,000-acre Toledo Bend Lake, a world-class bass fishing site. Set in rolling, forested hills, this is Louisiana 180 degrees different from the flat terrain which marks south Louisiana.

As such the golf course routing is creative and requires discipline in club selection. For instance, driver is definitely not called for on a few holes. However, that’s not to say the course lacks. Quite the opposite, any course which requires you to execute well thought out and well struck shots beyond the brainless, grip-and-rip mentality is a refreshing change. The key to scoring well at Cypress Bend is to think your way around the course, more than at most courses. And plan to play the course at least twice, once to learn it and twice to own it.

The 19th hole and accommodations at Cypress Bend are a treat. We stayed in the cottages across from the golf course and they are superb. Large and well decorated with full kitchens, living rooms, bedrooms and bathrooms they are a comfy home away from home. And the food and drink at the main resort building is everything one could ask for and more. Make sure to enjoy a pre-dinner drink on the patio overlooking the 18th green. The setting is relaxing and well-designed to include walking paths, indoor-outdoor pool and fitness center.

Last but not least on our golf sojourn was a trip to Gray Plantation in Lake Charles. Rated a “Top 100 Course You Can Play” by Golf Magazine, Gray is a 6,946 standout designed by Rocky Roquemore. Wetlands, sand bunkers, water and an almost always robust prevailing wind defend the this dandy design well but in extremely fair fashion. Gray is a course where you can bang the driver with gusto and be well rewarded. Wide, sprawling fairways beckon and set players up to score well if their approach shots and short game are on.

The variety of holes range from short, demanding par-3s surrounded by water to a reachable par-4 over water (if the wind is playing nice) to par-5s which can be reached in two shots but with heavy risk-reward decisions to be made.

A post-round meal – we had a crawfish boil on the veranda which was as good as it gets – and shower in the superlative clubhouse are a must and the perfect cap to an excellent golf experience at Gray. But the fun doesn’t stop there. The Isle of Capri and L’Auberge du Lac hotels and casinos in Lake Charles are great places to stay and enjoy gaming, entertainment and many other amenities.

It was tough to leave Louisiana after putting an exclamation point on the trip with our Lake Charles stay. But the good news is there are a slew of other Audubon Golf Trail courses I’ve yet to play, including in and around New Orleans and Baton Rouge. And since Louisiana is always welcoming to its visitors, I’m looking forward to a return trip soon.

Green fees for Gray Plantation are $50 during the week/$65 on weekends; Black Bear ($37/$49); Calvert Crossing ($55/$67); Olde Oaks ($44/$49); Cypress Bend ($55/$70). All of these rates are with tax and lower rates are available for seniors and via twilight play. Information on the Audubon Golf Trail is available at www.audubongolf.com or by phone at (866) AGT-INLA.

Audubon Park Executive

www.auduboninstitute.org/park 

Audubon Park Executive Golf Course, a par-62 course located in historic uptown New Orleans, is spread across 81 tree-lined acres on St. Charles Avenue and is the country’s only course accessible by streetcar. Recently awarded 4.5 of 5 stars on Golf Digest’s “Best Places to Play” rankings, the 4,220-yard Denis Griffiths design is set among hundred-year-old oak trees. Golf has been played at Audubon since 1898. World-famous Audubon Zoo is right across the street.

Black Bear

www.blackbear-golf.com          

Designed by Bechtol Russell Golf of Austin, Texas, with construction by Weitz Golf International. Black Bear Golf Course is on approximately 300 acres atop the Macon Ridge. The Bogzag and Cypress Creeks bisect the property and offer significant wetlands features. The routing of the course generally follows, then crosses the creeks and offers passes through the heavily treed creek bottoms. The result is a course that will have varied topography and weave from tree-lined holes to open holes.

Calvert Crossing

www.calvertgolf.com    

This intriguing member of the Audubon Golf Trail has a strange effect on people. One glimpse at this stunning 6,822-yard championship golf course, lush with tall pines and stately white oaks, and stress mysteriously melts away. Nestled in the charming town of Calhoun, in between Monroe and Ruston, Calvert Crossing is known as a "shotmaker's golf course." The regulars suggest you select your clubs wisely. When you're ready to put down your clubs and pick up a fork, head for one of Monroe’s fine restaurants. An area favorite is the Waterfront Grill, whose owner was recently named Louisiana's Restaurateur of the Year. If shopping is your passion, take a stroll down West Monroe's Antique Alley, where you'll discover everything from furniture found in Old South plantations to Coca-Cola memorabilia. Monroe, after all, is the former home of the first Coca-Cola® bottler.

Carter Plantation

www.carterplantation.com/golf.htm       

This signature design by PGA champion and LSU alumni David Toms was named among the “Top 10 You Can Play” by Golf Magazine in 2003. The spectacular 18-hole, 7,050-yard, par-72 course plays through three distinct Louisiana landscapes--live oaks, cypress wetlands, and upland pine forests. Great effort has been made to preserve the plantation's native wildlife habitats. With outstanding banquet facilities, a first-rate restaurant, and hospitable service at every turn, Carter Plantation offers a great venue for group outings as well as individual players.

Cypress Bend Golf Resort & Conference Center

www.cypressbend.com 

You’ll experience the magic the moment you set foot on Cypress Bend, a jewel on the Texas-Louisiana border. The 186,000-acre Toledo Bend Lake was already legendary for bass fishing — now it’s famous for golf as well. The 18-hole course features ten holes along the water and six with shots across hidden coves and inlets. Surrounding hardwood forests, undulating greens and dramatic elevation changes add to Cypress Bend’s challenge and beauty. The sunset over #17 is as stunning as anything you’ll ever see. Cypress Bend Golf Resort & Conference Center boasts 96 oversized rooms with an elegant country inn décor, an exceptional restaurant with views over the lake, spa facilities and more.

Gray Plantation

www.graywood.net      

In 2005, Golf Digest named Gray Plantation 75th out of 100 of America’s greatest public courses. In addition, in September 2004, Golf Magazine ranked it as one of the “top three among 50 best U.S. courses for $50 or less.” Gray Plantation is an artfully landscaped 18-hole, 7,000-yard course designed to challenge the pro and amateur alike. 60 acres of lakes come into play on 12 holes of veteran course architect Rocky Roquemore’s Calcasieu River course, which includes 94 bunkers and towering pines at most every turn. Particularly impressive are the club’s four dynamic par-3s, two of which feature island greens. The clubhouse is a raised plantation house surrounded by scenic marshland.

OakWing

www.oakwinggolf.com  

OakWing Golf Club, which opened in September 2002, offers a unique Jim Lipe design interwoven throughout its beautiful England Air Force Base location. This 7,043-yard links-style course blends the natural beauty of Louisiana bayous, lakes and towering tree-lined fairways with the challenge of rolling hills and undulating greens. This is truly a course for all skill levels. Centrally located in Alexandria, and only minutes from the main interstate, OakWing Golf Club should be added to your "Must Play" list of golf courses.

Olde Oaks

www.oldeoaksgolf.com

Gracing 340 acres of pristine rolling hills near Shreveport is Olde Oaks Golf Club, designed in close collaboration with PGA Ryder Cup Captain Hal Sutton. A native of the area, Sutton calls his first signature course one of the finest in the region. For the naturalist, Sutton’s dream club features 27 challenging holes offering tremendous variety. Five sets of tees and generous fairways allow any level of golfer to truly enjoy their round. Almost every species of wildlife that is native to this area can be found at Olde Oaks and many of them can be spotted during a round of golf. The grill at the Clubhouse is a great place to refuel before heading off to the casinos.

Tamahka Trails Golf Club

www.paragoncasinoresort.com

Golf is in the cards at the Paragon Resort and Casino. At the Tamahka Trails Golf Club, natural beauty cloaks an endless series of subtle, surprising challenges. Master golf course architect Steve Smyers coupled his “new school” design with a passionate appreciation of Scotland’s legendary courses to create 18 holes of pure perfection. Its numerous and often massive bunkers evoke a lunar landscape — and always require strategy. With its panoramic views of the course, the clubhouse is a great place to refresh before heading off to the Paragon Casino for action of another kind. It’s Las Vegas, Louisiana style.

The Island

www.theislandgolf.com 

Sweet. How else do you describe a championship course carved out of a sugar plantation? As a matter of fact, sugar cane still grows in the field next to The Island. This par-72 course measures over 7,000 yards from its championship tees and features 54 bunkers. There are nine lakes on this challenging course, as well as Bayou Plaquemine and Bayou Jacob. Solitude is the name of the game at The Island. Most times, only a blue heron is around to watch your next shot. The Island Bar & Grill features exceptional Louisiana fare that attracts golfers and non-golfers alike.

TPC Louisiana

www.tpc.com/daily/louisiana     

TPC Louisiana brings world-class, daily fee golf to New Orleans and the Audubon Golf Trail. Working in conjunction with PGA Tour players, Steve Elkington and Louisiana native Kelly Gibson, master architect Pete Dye created a 7,600-yard, par-72 championship course that sits low on the property and utilizes natural vegetation, including numerous cypress trees. Many compare it to a private nature preserve. The course offers four sets of tees, and even though the championship course stretches to 7,600 yards from the championship tees, Dye is pleased about a collection of short but challenging par-4 holes that complement the longer ones. Located just 15 minutes from the French Quarter, TPC Louisiana is home of Louisiana’s only PGA event, the Zurich Classic.

The Atchafalaya at Idlewild

www.atchafalayagolf.com        

The Atchafalaya Golf Course at Idlewild is surrounded by the rich wildlife and incredible beauty found only in the heart of the Atchafalaya Basin. Designed by Robert von Hagge, the 7,533-yard course contains five lakes and 10 native wetland areas that encompass nearly 40 acres of this 175-acre layout. More than a half million yards of native soil were used to develop dramatic elevations, creating breathtaking vistas. Designer Robert von Hagge is well known for his innovative courses including Doral, LaCosta and TPC at the Woodlands. The 18-hole course features five sets of tees, each named after wildlife native to the basin, large fairways and generous pin placements.

The Wetlands

The Wetlands is Lafayette' newest golf course and the newest member of the Audubon Golf Trail. Opened in April 2006, this course was designed by Architect Frank Burandt. The course not only showcases the region’s many lakes and wetland areas, it also features abundant flora, native grasses and wildflowers. Wind is a factor in playing on this golf course’s and holes #9 and #18 feature a double green that ends at the clubhouse for dramatic finishes. The Wetlands Golf Course is a links style course and sixty-two bunkers and native grass areas add to the severity of the golf course.

To speak with an Audubon Golf Trail Vacation Planner or to reserve tee times, please call toll-free 1-866-AGT-IN-LA, or visit www.AudubonGolf.com